Nina Ricci Autumn-Winter 2017The Nina Ricci Autumn-Winter 2017-2018 collection by Guillaume Henry revisits the cowgirl codes of the American West in a mix of references to the rodeo and the circus.
The Nina Ricci woman is a traveler, and she’s in it for the fun. The color palette captures a portrait of joyful rodeo girls: soft pastel hues of blue-gray, pink and yellow are contrasted and structured by black, navy and an array of beiges. Stretch materials — lace and lacquered silk — alternate with prints inspired by the corral and the rodeo arena. Leather or lizard patches and trim lend the pieces a luxurious structure. Fringe is handled like fabric. Coats in Mongolian lamb fur or shearling express refinement with an offbeat dash of humor.
Sharply constructed high-waisted pants in ski tricot are trimmed in contrasting leather. A Pierrot blouse or a Seventies jacket cut to echo a guitar contour slip down a shoulder, to reveal stretch lace lingerie. Caramel chaps with side restorations reveal the curve of the hip, right where a hand might caress.
The urban cowgirl wears a jacket inspired by the denim classic, a silk twill cowboy shirt with snap closures and a metal-tipped collar cinched with a long bolo tie. A pink Mongolian fur coat with leather patches and woven leather buttons makes an extravagant statement. A quilted skirt with rodeo motifs is paired with a shearling pea coat edged in navy leather. For evening, a sky blue smoking with lizard shoulder details projects the glamour of a heroine from “Dallas”.
Shoes slip on like gloves. Mules in textured leather mix with low boots and formfitting thigh boots or shoes in crépe de Chine. Handbags swing to a country beat: the Tupi, the bridle-zip Chimariko and the Mexican saddle-inspired Bronco with a patchwork of stars evoke a beautiful night in the desert.