Trussardi Spring / Summer 2015 Milan Fashion Week: The Leather Athletic Aesthetic
"This season I imagine a woman, an athlete... Somebody who is in love with leather goods" said Gaia Trussardi of her collection for Spring / Summer 2015 in Milan, and there is perhaps no better way to sum up what this talented new designer’s third season as Trussardi’s creative director represented. Gone is the flamboyance of the previous two seasons, Trussardi replacing prints with an emphasis on texture.
This season’s looks drew strong inspiration from the athletic aesthetic, a sense of movement created through lean cuts and classic sporting silhouettes. The collection featured tennis-derived mini-skirts, tank tops and polo shirts, and although Trussardi clearly had one eye on the gymnasium, the collection’s catwalk credentials emerged in the replacement of almost all fabric for various leathers. Ostrich skin and luxuriant crocodile hide were just two of the leathers to feature in a botanical color palette of nut browns, pistachio green and cherry red. Highlights in the array of leatherwear included a mini-kilt and pleated leather trousers.
Interspersed with the leather staples were pieces of knitwear, which Trussardi feels have always been important for the brand. Chunky cable knits and sleeker subtle weaves provided a contrast in this collection made almost entirely of leather, and produced multi-textural interaction.
The end result is a collection of mixed textures and athletic inspiration which Trussardi believes is “Extreme luxurious linear elegance”, both timeless and worn in a very fresh way.