Making Waves at Damir Doma Spring/Summer 2015 Paris Fashion Week
Damir Doma left fans in little doubt as to the inspirations for his “Silent” women’s Spring/Summer 2015 ready-to-wear collection, explaining that he drew from such eclectic influences as Audrey Hepburn walking along a beach with fisherman’s net cast over shoulder, New Order’s Power, Corruption & Lies album and the Manhattan skyline.
The natural consequence of such specific and diverse influences was a collection which lacked a central unifying thread. It was none the weaker for this; rather than choosing a theme and contriving a wardrobe around it, Doma chose things that he finds beautiful and rendered them into sartorial form. The line was articulated in several directions: in smart, tailored monochrome pieces, in more casual looks such as a taupe, flowing midi skirt, and even in sportswear-derived deep v-neck, tank top cuts.
Doma joined a number of designers, including Mulberry and Erdem, who looked to nature for inspiration this season; for Doma, nature meant the beach. He explained that he “thought of a woman alone on the beach collecting things: driftwood and bits of Murano glass…” This vision was played out through neutral accents—camel and taupe recurring—and through a focus on laid-back comfort. If there was any commonality to be found, it was in the look’s confident and practical simplicity. Garments featured little embellishment barring occasional tassels, and models wore nude make up and sandals. Doma wanted and created “femininity that’s sensual but very real.”